Nova Hair How to Bleach Raw Hair Safely to 613
Bleaching raw hair to 613 works because genuine raw hair has an intact cuticle and no prior processing, so it lifts through the warm tones to pale blonde without falling apart. The process is a controlled chemical lift: bleach oxidizes and breaks down the hair’s natural melanin in stages, and the colourist’s job is to take it far enough to reach a clean blonde while stopping before the hair is compromised. This guide explains the chemistry and the safe method, but colour work on hair you will sell should be done by a trained colourist.
The short version: bleach lifts hair by destroying melanin through oxidation, hair passes through red then orange then yellow stages as it lightens, and reaching a clean 613 usually means lifting to pale yellow and then toning. Raw hair lifts cleaner than processed hair because its cuticle and structure are intact. Test on a strand first, always.
How does bleaching hair actually work?
Bleaching lightens hair by using an alkaline hydrogen peroxide mixture to oxidize and destroy the melanin that gives hair its colour. Research on hair chemistry describes bleaching as a destructive oxidation: the alkaline agent swells and lifts the cuticle, and the peroxide’s reactive species break down the melanin’s colour-bearing structure (as documented in hair-science literature, including work published via ScienceDirect in 2017). Persulfate boosters in bleach powder accelerate the lift. Because the process destroys pigment rather than covering it, it cannot be undone, which is why control and testing matter so much.
Why does raw hair lift to 613 more cleanly?
Raw hair lifts more cleanly because its cuticle is intact and aligned and it has never been chemically processed, so the bleach acts evenly across undamaged hair. Processed hair sold as raw has already been acid-stripped and coated, so when bleach hits it, the compromised structure lifts unevenly, turns gummy, or breaks. This difference is the entire basis of the bleach test as an authenticity check, which we cover in the 613 bleach test explained. Starting with genuine raw hair bundles is the single biggest factor in a clean result.
What are the stages of lifting to blonde?
Hair lifts through predictable warm stages as bleach removes pigment, and knowing them tells you how far you have to go. Darker eumelanin pigment breaks down before the warmer pheomelanin, so hair moves from its base through red, then orange, then yellow, and finally to pale yellow. Reaching a clean 613 usually means lifting all the way to pale yellow and then using a toner to neutralize the remaining warmth. Stopping at orange or brassy yellow and toning too early is the most common reason a “613” ends up looking gold or brassy rather than clean.
The safe process, step by step
Work in controlled stages and never rush the lift, because damage happens when a colourist pushes too hard in one pass. A safe approach:
- Strand test first. Bleach a small section and take it fully through the process before committing the whole batch. This confirms how the hair lifts and how long it takes.
- Mix to the correct ratio. Follow the bleach and developer manufacturer’s ratio; a lower-volume developer lifts more gently over more time, a higher volume lifts faster with more risk.
- Apply evenly and saturate fully. Uneven application causes patchy lift. Keep the hair saturated so it processes uniformly.
- Monitor, do not walk away. Check the lift regularly rather than relying on a fixed time, since hair lifts at its own pace.
- Rinse, then tone. Once the hair reaches pale yellow, rinse thoroughly and apply a toner to neutralize warmth and reach a clean 613.
- Condition and assess. After toning, condition and check the hair’s integrity before it is used or sold.
If a single pass will not reach the target without over-processing, a second session after the hair rests is safer than forcing it.
The mistakes that ruin a lift
Most bleaching failures come from a handful of avoidable errors: pushing too high a developer volume for speed, uneven application, skipping the strand test, toning before the hair has lifted enough, and reusing bleach that has already exhausted. Over-processing weakens the hair permanently, and no toner fixes structural damage. If you are colouring hair you intend to sell, the safest path is a trained colourist and genuine raw hair, because the best process cannot rescue poor-quality hair.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you bleach raw hair to 613?
Yes, genuine raw hair can be bleached to 613 because its intact cuticle and unprocessed structure lift evenly to pale blonde. The hair passes through red, orange, and yellow stages as bleach removes pigment, then a toner neutralizes the remaining warmth to reach a clean 613. Processed hair sold as raw cannot lift cleanly and often turns gummy.
Why does my bleached hair look brassy instead of 613?
Brassiness happens when hair is not lifted far enough before toning, so warm orange or gold pigment remains. Reaching a clean 613 usually requires lifting all the way to pale yellow and then applying a toner to neutralize the warmth. Toning too early, over exposed hair still in the orange or yellow stage, leaves a brassy result.
Is it better to bleach hair in one session or two?
It is safer to lift in two sessions than to force a single pass that over-processes the hair. If a strand test shows the hair will not reach the target without damage in one go, lift as far as is safe, let the hair rest, and finish in a second session. Protecting the hair’s integrity matters more than speed.
Do you need to tone hair after bleaching to 613?
Yes, most hair needs toning after bleaching to reach a clean 613, because lifting leaves warm yellow tones that toner neutralizes. Once the hair reaches pale yellow, rinse thoroughly and apply a toner suited to the warmth you need to cancel. Skipping the tone typically leaves a gold or brassy result rather than a clean blonde.
Start with hair that lifts cleanly
A clean 613 begins with genuine raw hair, and Nova Hair Factory produces single-donor Vietnamese raw bundles that lift to 613 in the factory, plus a colour collection already toned to shade. We run a bleach test on camera so you can see the lift before you buy. Message us on WhatsApp at +84 36 216 7992 for samples.